News-Journal staffer Valerie Whitney and her daughter Amina recently visited Bertie's Luncheonette in Bellair Plaza to try a special dinner program menu available only on Thursday and Friday nights.
Isn't this a luncheonette?
Yes, but since April the owner and chef has been serving dinners on Thursdays and Fridays from 5 to 8:30 p.m. These twice-weekly prix fixe menus apparently have developed quite a following, according to our waitress. She pointed out several tables of regulars.
What about the food?
The menu changes each week. Besides the entree, dinner includes a soup or salad and one of three desserts. Amina and I chose to add appetizers to our meal for the full effect. There were two choices: baked brie in croute with pecans, brown sugar, a warm apricot glaze and herb crostinis; or Maryland-style backfin crab cakes with citrus dijon beurre blanc. Amina chose the brie, which had a very appealing presentation.
Having relocated to the Sunshine state from the Chesapeake Bay area, I have been disappointed so many times here in Florida after ordering crab cakes. Usually, they have more cake or stuffing than crab. We were pleasantly surprised that wasn't the case with chef Adam. The dish came with two nice-sized cakes.
Amina chose the cold Thai sesame noodle salad with green onions and bean sprouts. She didn't seem to care for what tasted like peanut sauce on it. She liked my soup, which was a Manhattan-style clam chowder with amontillado sherry.
Amina selected the Airline Chicken Breast, which was stuffed with poultry and morel mushroom forcemeat and served with a brown sauce, for her entree. She pronounced it "yummy" several times. I ordered the Red Grouper Oscar, which came with more crab meat (yummy), asparagus and hollandaise sauce.
They give you a lot of food here. We really could have shared a meal. That is what it seems like some folks were doing. Since the eatery doesn't have a beer or wine license, guests also are allowed to bring their own bottle.
Did you have dessert?
Yes, I ordered the tiramisu. My daughter ordered the Boston cream Ghirardelli napoleon with pastry cream and fresh berries. I really liked mine. It was just sweet enough. I was stuffed to the gills and couldn't finish it, though. Amina didn't care for the pastry, but she loved the cream and berries.We finished the meal with really strong coffee.
Any leftovers?
Most certainly. There was no way we could have eaten all of that food and walked out of the restaurant. We both enjoyed the leftovers.
What about the decor?
Besides the gingham table linens, you know you're not really at a fancy bistro because of the lighting and the noise. Just not the quiet dining place you would expect for this type of menu, but then this is a luncheonette.
How much did you spend?
The crab cake appetizer cost $12, the baked brie $10. My entree cost $28 and Amina's cost $29. Our tab with tax and a 20 percent tip came to $100.98.
An Evening at Bertie's with Chef Adam
WHERE: 2575 N. Atlantic Ave., Daytona Beach
ACCESSIBILITY: The eatery is located in Bellair Shopping Center and there is plenty of free parking.
HOURS: 5 to 8:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday nights
MISCELLANEOUS : MasterCard and Visa for dinner only. There is a $5 sharing charge. Guest can bring their own bottle of wine. Reservations recommended. CONTACT : 386-672-8656
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