Venetian Bay is one of those "smart growth" communities that have been all the rage among urban planners as cities try to combat the problems inherent in suburban sprawl. It's a high concept, but making it work in the real world depends on mixing a massive subdivision with a quaint little shopping and dining center that residents can visit on a walk or bike ride -- and will want to keep visiting long after they've moved.
Staff Writer Derek Catron and a dining companion decided to see how that balance works by checking out Luna Bella Ristorante, which opened in December.
What's the atmosphere like?
Picture Disney's Celebration, and you'll understand the concept behind the neighborhood. Now imagine it with a Mediterranean flair instead of Americana and you've got Venetian Bay.
Is it too pricey for me?
Luna Bella offers a good mix of prices, probably a good idea for a restaurant that will depend a lot on repeat business.
The menu includes gourmet pizzas, salads and pastas -- all reasonably priced -- but this is no Olive Garden. Instead of lasagna, chicken parmesan and other staples of Italian chain restaurants, you'll find more exotic fare like Risotto Primavera ($11). But it's the entrees that reveal the kitchen's full ambitions, with selections including Chilean Sea Bass ($30) and Beef Wellington Luna Bella ($38).
What did you eat?
The menu offers a lot of tempting appetizers. We settled on the Insalata Caprese ($8) and Gingered Shrimp Toast and Crispy Crab Cakes Sandwich ($10.50).
As soon as the appetizers arrived, we knew this was a kitchen that prided itself on presentation as well as the quality of its cooking and fresh ingredients.
For example, the slices of tomato and mozzarella in the salad were carefully stacked in a circle, artfully drizzled with the balsamic vinegar and topped with a bloom of basil. It was almost too pretty to eat -- and the arrangement of each subsequent dish would show a similar attention to detail.
I had the Pollo e Gamberetti ($19), a sauteed chicken breast with shrimp adorned with mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes in an aged balsamic demi-glaze sauce. It was tasty and hearty.
My dining companion chose the cheese ravioli ($11), which was cooked in a light walnut brandy cream sauce. We shared liberally, and the experience reminded me of eating a multi-course meal in a genuine trattoria.
Did you get dessert?
Honestly, we were probably too full for dessert, but we soldiered on rather than risk disappointing Supper Club readers. We chose Bananas Foster ($7), one of my companion's favorites, though it made me a touch nervous.
Like almost any new restaurant, we were waited on by a mostly callow staff (you should resist the urge to offer assistance in opening a wine bottle). The prospect of the liquor in the dessert's sauce being lit tableside was, I feared, asking too much.
But our young waiter proved to have as deft a touch with fire as the kitchen and made a fine show of it -- and a good summary for the evening. After a visit, you might find yourself wishing Luna Bella was in your neighborhood.
Luna Bella Ristorante
WHERE: 424 Luna Bella Lane, New Smyrna Beach (inside Venetian Bay)
HOURS: Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; dinner only on Sunday, 4-9 p.m. Closed Monday
PHONE: 386-423-5862
MISC.: Reservations and major credit cards accepted; ample parking is available.
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