Today's Special

Get hooked on dinner at NSB grill

2010-06-16T15:09:33Z

On a recent stormy Friday evening, Accent Editor David Wersinger and his wife Tammie stopped by Off the Hook Raw Bar & Grill in the Indian River Village Shopping Center in New Smyrna Beach. As the name implies, the restaurant specializes in seafood in all its glory, and it certainly didn't disappoint.

Start with the restaurant's decor, please.

Off the Hook is a big roomy space, clean as a whistle and heavy on the nautical theme. It's usually packed, especially on a Friday night, but a torrential downpour that evening must have kept the crowds away.

The restaurant also has 15 flat-screen TVs -- think upscale sports bar.

What did you start off with?

Tammie got to the restaurant first, and had already ordered the fried calamari ($10), extra crispy, please. The dish included tentacles, which I love, and came with house pickled peppers, onions and a homemade remoulade. Yum. When told that the Crab Cobb Salad ($10) was a meal in itself, we decided to share it. Our kindly and attentive waitress, Sarah, separated the salad before bringing it to our table -- always a nice touch. Each bowl was brimming with romaine and iceberg lettuce, fresh blue crab, chopped bacon, hardboiled egg, tomato, avocado and bleu cheese crumbles, topped with an exquisitely tangy champagne vinaigrette.

Move on to the main course. What did you have?

I ordered the Pan Seared Sea Scallops ($14), while Tammie got the Prince Edward Island Mussels. The scallops were cooked perfectly to my liking, medium (though my wife prefers her seafood well-done), and finely dusted with chili powder and a beurre blanc sauce. The mussels, though a tad smaller than an earlier visit, had that briny, fresh-from-the sea aroma and were covered with bits of bacon, spinach and crumbles of bleu cheese, all soaking in a white wine sauce. A small loaf of French bread helped soak up all that liquid goodness.

What was the final tally?

We passed on dessert, but even with drinks and a tip, the total came to a very respectable $69.51.

Off The Hook Raw Bar & Grill
Where: 747 E. 3rd Ave., New Smyrna Beach
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Sunday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m., Friday and Saturday
Call: 386-402-9300

Fresh fish hooks visitors at Flagler Fish Company

2010-05-05T18:16:36Z

Motorsports Editor Godwin Kelly is back on the Supper Club trail, chomping his way through Flagler County.

Kelly's whistle-stop, tummy tour took him back into Flagler Beach where he joined his wife, Diane, and their son, Casey, for dinner at the Flagler Fish Company.

So, you decided to come back and make a snarfing, public spectacle of yourself once again?

Don't hold it against me, that is, unless it is fried or sauteed.

Are you obsessed with seafood joints in Flagler County? Isn't this like the third place where you have soiled your dress shirt?

Actually, it's my fourth seafood outing in America's greatest county, if you're counting catfish, palmetto trees and red-light, ticket traffic cameras. Oh, and potatoes. Facing south, you got Putnam County to your right and that big, beautiful, bountiful ocean to your left. Where would you go to dinner?

Back on task mister. Can you tell us about the FFC?

Isn't that a government agency? Do you want me to tell you about cable company regulations or give you a restaurant review?

Not the Federal Communications Commission, but the Flagler Fish Company?

Oh, yeah. My bad. Locals call the place the FFC and it's a neat little hideaway kind of place. You got to look for it. It's a block off A1A on South Daytona Avenue, across from the farmers market.

I don't need GPS coordinates. Is the place any good?

No - it's fabulous. It has a colorful, beachy feel to it and the wait staff is super nice and fast with the food. Very relaxed. I hadn't secured both buns to the seat before somebody brought us a basket of chips and dip. Food before we ordered! I loved that so much, I gave the server the old Kelly wink for the freebie offering. I don't think he appreciated the gesture and we were assigned a female server.

What is on the menu?

The FFC specializes in fresh fish. They are so proud of their catch, they keep it in a display case in the dining area. The restaurant also offers locally netted shrimp and other shellfish. The only northerners in the joint were a group of hearty-looking, Maine lobsters in the classic saltwater holding tank. And one more aside. Part of the kitchen is in full view of the dining room.

What did you order? How did it go down?

I got the steamed mussels and a cup of red (tomato-based) fish chowder to open the show. The main event was a gigantic bowl of Red Neck Scampi.

Timeout! What?

Shrimp and grits, the restaurant's signature dish, I was told. It was delicious. Diane had grouper -- she said it was superb -- and lobster bisque, which is described on the menu as "creamy, lobstery and bisquey." How could she resist? The fish selection was awesome. The FFC has a three-stage fish ordering system: pick your fish, choose how it's prepared and pick a couple of side dishes. Casey, 17, wasn't in the mood for seafood and opted for two chicken breast tacos, stuffed with lettuce, avocado and tomatoes. He later texted me that he thought it was pretty good.

How about dessert, lard man?

Hold on to the edge of your table for this shocker -- we didn't order dessert. The dinner was just too filling, but they had some interesting choices including a fried Twinkie, individual cheesecakes and my all-time favorite, creme brulee. It was tough to wave off the dessert menu. I just couldn't take one for the team that night.

Wallet damage? Report please.

My mom used to tell me (still does), "You get what you pay for." In this case, super fresh ingredients. I swear I saw one of my shrimp wiggle when they put the bowl in front of me. Anyway, the whole check, including gratuity, was $98, but we ordered from the Park Avenue side of the menu. I swear on an ice-cold Corona that a cash-strapped couple could get out of there for under $50.

Lunch is lovely at La Crepe En Haut

2010-03-24T16:43:22Z

News-Journal Managing Editor Cory Lancaster took a friend to lunch at La Crepe En Haut

Restaurant in Ormond Beach.

Why La Crepe En Haut?

My dining companion, Linda Creesy, was celebrating her birthday (she turned 60, but please

keep that to yourself). La Crepe is a well-known spot for special occasions and Linda had

never been there. I've wanted to try it for lunch, hoping to enjoy its French cuisine at a

reasonable price.

First things first: How do you pronounce the name and what does it mean?

Translated as "pancakes on high," the name dates to the original owners in 1979 who served

crepes -- thin French pancakes -- in the second-floor restaurant. The restaurant manager

said he pronounces it as la crepe "n-o," as if he's spelling the word, no.

Describe the ambiance inside La Crepe.

Located off Granada Boulevard on the beachside in Ormond Beach, La Crepe is considered

one of the finer restaurants in the area with star ratings from Florida Trend and other

reviewers. Its intimate interior reflects this with elegant table settings and furnishings.

Reservations are recommended for dinner, but on the day we had lunch, people walked in and

were seated right away without calling ahead of time.

What did you have?

La Crepe has some signature dishes, including crab cakes, which, according to our waiter,

are made with jumbo lump crab meat and no bread crumbs or fillers -- just a little egg to hold

the meat together. Linda ordered that and her entree came with two crab cakes, mashed

potatoes and a vegetable mix of asparagus, carrots, zucchini and squash ($18.95; a single

crab cake entree is $14.95). The crab cakes were "melt in my mouth" good, Linda said, with

a nice sauce.

I ordered the French Country Platter salad ($13.95), which came with generous scoops of

shrimp salad, chicken curry and chicken salad

amid a plate of field greens, tomato wedges,

hearts of palm and shredded red cabbage and

carrots. The shrimp salad was tangy. The

chicken curry was mildly spicy with lots of

chunks of meat and the chicken salad came

with plenty of walnuts and a little celery. It was

too much to eat and my husband enjoyed the

leftovers when I got home.

Both entrees came with a cup of the soup du

jour. That day, it was duck confit chowder, a

tasty, rich soup with plenty of duck.

What about dessert?

The birthday girl ordered the homemade

cheesecake ($7.75), which came with a raspberry

cream sauce, a few strawberries on the side with whipped cream and, of course, a lit birthday

candle. The thick cheesecake was "heavenly" and "obviously baked with love," Linda said. I

had to have a bite. Well, actually it was three .¤.¤. or maybe four. In middle age, it's best to

stop counting birthdays and bites of desserts.

Did La Crepe live up to its claim of "outstanding service and exceptional food?"

The waiters were friendly, attentive and happy to answer questions about the menu and

unknown French terms. My friend uses a walker and we had trouble operating the outside

wheelchair lift, which was slow and temperamental in the rainy cold weather. The manager

was super-helpful, coming outside and making it work as we arrived and left as he

commented that he hopes Fountain Square will get a new wheelchair lift soon.

Can people get in and out on their lunch hour, if they're pressed for time?

I had the day off and wanted to enjoy our lunch at a relaxed pace. But our two decaf coffees

and warm bread arrived at the table right away. The soup arrived five minutes later and our

entrees came 10 minutes later. If we had skipped dessert, we easily could have finished in

the lunch hour, although in a place like this, to rush -- to quote a famous song -- would be a

crime.

What was the bill?

For two lunches, two coffees and one dessert, the bill was $47.78, not including the tip.

Anything else?

For cost-conscious diners, La Crepe offers all-inclusive dinners on Wednesday and Thursday

nights. For $45 per person, diners get an appetizer, a salad, a choice of one of two entrees, a

choice of one of two desserts and a bottle of red or white wine. The staff e-mails the dinner

menus each Wednesday to people on the restaurant's e-mail list.

La Crepe En Haut Restaurant & Bar

WHERE: Fountain Square, 142 E. Granada Blvd., Ormond Beach

HOURS: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday; dinner 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday

through Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday.

CONTACT INFO: 386-673-1999; lacrepeenhaut.net

MISC.: Major credit cards accepted; handicapped accessible

Hargrove Grille & Catering: a surprise in the warehouse district

2010-03-17T16:11:39Z

Tucked among dozens of warehouse buildings, strings of colorful plastic pennants caught the attention of News-Journal Staff Writer Audrey Parente when she was trying to locate an out-of-the way building where a friend works.

The words on a sign said something about a grille, and people at outdoor tables seemed to be enjoying the sunshine while they ate. She couldn't pass it up. What she found was Hargrove Grille & Catering, where she and her friend had lunch.

What was the place like?

The clean, bright and spacious dining room with wooden chairs and tables was inviting, but outside was so nice for a change, we ate at mesh wrought iron tables and enjoyed the sun.
How was the menu?

The menu was packed, including a full run of breakfast-anytime choices ($1 extra after 11 a.m.), and the grill offered burgers, chicken and fish. There were soups, wraps, salads and wings.

Despite the generous menu, with lunch-right prices, there were not a lot of customers. All the better to get to me quick, even though it's not a fast-food operation but a real-deal restaurant with beer and wine.

What did you order?

A cup of split-pea soup was delicious, not over-salted and not likely from a can. That was very homey and comforting. A batch of lemon-garlic chicken wings with honey-mustard sauce and a batch of fries was more than enough for one person, with leftovers.

For this Italian girl, spicy sausage sub would have meant a big Italian-style sausage with peppers, but the meat was more like a sliced sausage hot dog. Hot chilies mixed in with the red and green peppers made it very memorable.

Anything else?

Bob Allen, the owner, had a colorful notice on his "Specials of the Day" chalkboard that said he's having a traditional St. Patty's Day menu today. The white-and-green, shamrock-decorated, handwritten note suggested calling in orders ahead.

How much did it cost?

Cup of split pea soup, $3.50. Lemon-garlic chicken wings with honey-mustard sauce on the side, $4.95; sausage and peppers, $6.50. Total with tax and tip: $19.

Hargrove Grille & Catering
WHERE: 11 E. Hargrove Grade, Palm Coast
HOURS: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. daily
PHONE: 386-445-6486
MISC.: Plenty of parking, handicapped accessible. Major credit cards accepted.

Luna Bella Ristorante: It's a beautiful meal in the neighborhood

2010-03-10T15:44:26Z

Venetian Bay is one of those "smart growth" communities that have been all the rage among urban planners as cities try to combat the problems inherent in suburban sprawl. It's a high concept, but making it work in the real world depends on mixing a massive subdivision with a quaint little shopping and dining center that residents can visit on a walk or bike ride -- and will want to keep visiting long after they've moved.

Staff Writer Derek Catron and a dining companion decided to see how that balance works by checking out Luna Bella Ristorante, which opened in December.

What's the atmosphere like?

Picture Disney's Celebration, and you'll understand the concept behind the neighborhood. Now imagine it with a Mediterranean flair instead of Americana and you've got Venetian Bay.

Is it too pricey for me?

Luna Bella offers a good mix of prices, probably a good idea for a restaurant that will depend a lot on repeat business.

The menu includes gourmet pizzas, salads and pastas -- all reasonably priced -- but this is no Olive Garden. Instead of lasagna, chicken parmesan and other staples of Italian chain restaurants, you'll find more exotic fare like Risotto Primavera ($11). But it's the entrees that reveal the kitchen's full ambitions, with selections including Chilean Sea Bass ($30) and Beef Wellington Luna Bella ($38).

What did you eat?

The menu offers a lot of tempting appetizers. We settled on the Insalata Caprese ($8) and Gingered Shrimp Toast and Crispy Crab Cakes Sandwich ($10.50).

As soon as the appetizers arrived, we knew this was a kitchen that prided itself on presentation as well as the quality of its cooking and fresh ingredients.

For example, the slices of tomato and mozzarella in the salad were carefully stacked in a circle, artfully drizzled with the balsamic vinegar and topped with a bloom of basil. It was almost too pretty to eat -- and the arrangement of each subsequent dish would show a similar attention to detail.

I had the Pollo e Gamberetti ($19), a sauteed chicken breast with shrimp adorned with mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes in an aged balsamic demi-glaze sauce. It was tasty and hearty.

My dining companion chose the cheese ravioli ($11), which was cooked in a light walnut brandy cream sauce. We shared liberally, and the experience reminded me of eating a multi-course meal in a genuine trattoria.

Did you get dessert?

Honestly, we were probably too full for dessert, but we soldiered on rather than risk disappointing Supper Club readers. We chose Bananas Foster ($7), one of my companion's favorites, though it made me a touch nervous.

Like almost any new restaurant, we were waited on by a mostly callow staff (you should resist the urge to offer assistance in opening a wine bottle). The prospect of the liquor in the dessert's sauce being lit tableside was, I feared, asking too much.

But our young waiter proved to have as deft a touch with fire as the kitchen and made a fine show of it -- and a good summary for the evening. After a visit, you might find yourself wishing Luna Bella was in your neighborhood.

Luna Bella Ristorante

WHERE: 424 Luna Bella Lane, New Smyrna Beach (inside Venetian Bay)

HOURS: Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; dinner only on Sunday, 4-9 p.m. Closed Monday

PHONE: 386-423-5862

MISC.: Reservations and major credit cards accepted; ample parking is available.

'Delicious' Italian dishes served at That's Amore

2010-03-03T15:51:40Z

With love in their hearts for New Smyrna Beach and each other, Editorial Assistant Kathy Page and her husband, Robert, decided the perfect place to celebrate their wedding anniversary was That's Amore Ristorante & Pizzeria. Opened last August in the historic beachside area off Flagler Avenue, That's Amore is at the former location of Flip Flops Chill and Grill.

So what's the place like?

The restaurant is well-known for its Italian Neopolitan cuisine, so we knew we were in for a treat when we smelled the blend of mouth-watering aromas just walking down South Pine Street from our parking place. The indoor dining room is small with a relaxed neighborhood atmosphere and a large bar. There are several high definition TVs for sports enthusiasts to keep up with the latest scores. There's also an outdoor garden-style dining area in the back and a few tables outside that front South Pine Street.

How was the service?

Everyone was very friendly and accommodating and we instantly got the feeling that we'd be making some new friends in no time, and we did. The Saturday night we were there, the place was packed so we sat at the bar and toasted to our anniversary over a bottle of Sycamore Lane Cabernet Sauvignon, recommended by our bartender, Justin, while we waited for our table. In no time at all, Chad (Schilsky) seated us at a spot in the corner, perfect for our celebration. Our server, Janice, even took time out to snap a few photos of us to mark the occasion.

Mingling in the dining room were twin brothers Vincenzo and Pietro (the head chef) Capuano, who co-own the restaurant with Chad. The room was abuzz with lots of hugging, laughing and chatting and everyone on staff seemed to treat their customers like family.

What did you order?

We started with the calamari. The freshly cut squid rings were fried tender and served with their special marinara sauce. We also munched on the homemade bruschetta. The toasted Italian bread was topped with fresh tomatoes, garlic, basil and extra virgin olive oil. I'm not a soup person, but since it was a cool evening, soup sounded good. Janice suggested the tomato basil bisque and pasta fagioli and it really hit the spot.

How about your entrees?

Robert ordered the Flounder Fra Diavolo special. The fresh flounder came with mussels, clams and shrimp and was covered in a spicy red sauce with spaghetti. I ordered the shrimp scampi with lemon garlic butter and white wine. Pasta dishes include either a cup of soup or side salad and entrees are served with a side pasta, garlic red mashed potatoes or vegetables. Everything was prepared and presented perfectly and tasted out of this world delicious! Even the rolls were excellent, made from fresh pizza dough, and served with marinara sauce for dipping.

Was there room for dessert?

No, but we were celebrating, after all, so we splurged on the chocolate cheesecake.

What else is on the menu?

There are different specials every night, a variety of pasta dishes, several seafood, chicken and steak entrees, Pietro's panini specialty sandwiches and lots of "That's Amore Pizza: Simply 'Wow!'¤" selections.

How much did it cost?

Dinner for two with appetizers, soup, dessert and wine was $93.50 minus the tip. Spending a memorable evening together celebrating our 28th wedding anniverary with an excellent meal, bottle of wine and chocolate cheesecake, priceless!

Diner finds Blue at Topaz lunch special 'amazing'

2010-02-17T15:49:59Z

In her never-ending and too often futile quest to find good food in Flagler County, Blue at Topaz was like a breath of fresh air for News-Journal staff writer Kari Cobham.

And we're OK with that cliche since it's on oceanfront State Road A1A -- hence the fresh air -- and happy taste buds can say whatever they want.

Also, the decor at Blue is, you guessed it, blue: blue walls, fixtures and stained glass. But it's tolerably bohemian since the 7-year-old restaurant is part of the old Fuquay House circa 1926.

Late architect Dana Fuquay's two-story mansion and the Coast Guard's former World War II home is now the renovated Topaz Hotel and, admittedly, it doesn't look like much from the outside.

But wait 'til you get a load of the daily lunch specials and menu.

]]> So what's the menu like?

In general, it's pretty seafood heavy, but there's also salad, steak, chicken, duck, lamb, pork chops, pasta and grilled sandwiches.

Think fish tacos, grilled portobello sandwiches, wasabi horseradish honey-crusted salmon and chicken gorgonzola. Meal prices average between $15 and $25 depending on time of day; specials cost less.

What did you have?

I went with the lunch special: parmesan-encrusted grouper in tomato/basil sauce, basmati rice and haricot vert (green beans) ($12) with cranberry juice ($2). (Beer and wine are also available, but let's not imbibe in the middle of a work day.)

That and a generous tip came up to a grand total of just under $20.

How was it?

It took considerable self-restraint to keep from eating the plate. In other words, it was amazing.

The fish was soft, flaky and mildly spicy, the basmati rice was fragrant and slightly sticky and the green beans were a good touch. I call five stars.

What about the ambience?

The oceanview dining room, with original hand-carved ceiling moldings, seats 48 people. The wrap-around porch is perfect for pretty beach days and intimate dinners.

The hotel boasts antiques and interesting period and family memorabilia. Seating was prompt and service very accommodating.

Can you take your mom?

Totally. I took mine. And she loved it.

Blue at Topaz
WHERE: 1224 S. Oceanshore Blvd., Flagler Beach; www.flagleronline.com/blue
PHONE: 386-439-4322
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
MISC.: Cash and credit cards accepted. Parking on hotel grounds. Handicapped accessible.

Kettles of soup, beer in boots at Malony's

2010-02-10T15:53:16Z

When the streets are quiet and few folks roam the downtown drag at night, a little spot on Canal Street offers warmth in its soups, songs and folks.

It's not always easy finding a place to eat in New Smyrna Beach once the sun goes down, so when News-Journal staff writer Kelly Cuculiansky saw the lights on at Malony's Oyster Bar, she happily ushered her parents and fiance in for what she knew would be a unique meal.

So what's it like?

I'd been there twice before on Tuesday nights, when the Pickin' Kind plays feisty Irish drinking songs and folk music to a raucous crowd of 20-somethings to grandpas who still manage to down a boot full of beer. (As in a whole lotta beer in a tall glass shaped like a boot.)

On a cold January evening, though, this was more of a soup night, and I'd been eyeing those steam kettles on a few of my visits. My parents, who were visiting from Miami, of course were freezing and were excited about the prospect of this strange, freshly made soup at the bar.

It kind of has the feeling of an old fisherman's hideaway by the sea -- a nautical place where a man like Ernest Hemingway might have enjoyed sipping whiskey (except there's no hard spirits here, just beer and wine). But it's also the type of place where you can get away from the cold and bustle of life, get an avocado and wild Alaskan salmon sandwich or have a seafood soup with the fam.

We sat in a booth across from the bar. Hanging from the ceiling nearby was an antique-looking mermaid. Above us on the wall, we admired a giant feathery piece of baleen -- a piece of a whale's upper jaw that filters plankton and other food and is actually made out of keratin, the same material as our fingernails. (How's that for a fun fact of the day?)

]]> What did you order?

I'm sure by now you'd be able to deduct we got a round of steam kettle creations. But we did start with some appetizers. We shared a spinach salad with a homemade sweet and sour balsamic vinaigrette ($5.25), a shrimp cocktail ($6) and who can go to a raw oyster bar and not order a dozen of those suckers ($8.50)? Afterward, Mami and I ordered cream-based stews. She got clam stew ($7.75) and I went with a combination of oysters and clams ($8.75). The guys went with pan roasts, which are tomato based. Tim ordered shrimp ($7.75) and Papi got shrimp, oyster and clams ($8.75).

Both types of soups start out with a little butter, celery, onion. The pan roast has chili paste and garlic to give it a bisque taste. The soups also come with a wedge of tasty pumpernickel bread for dipping.

How fresh is it?

Let's put it this way. You can watch them dropping the ingredients into the big black kettles at the bar and give it some stirs. We all got a kick out of that.

Did you order dessert?

We almost walked away without it, but the waitress mentioned the word homemade and we were sold. The Key lime pie slices we shared were delectably soft.

Malony's Oyster Bar
WHERE: 147 Canal St., New Smyrna Beach
HOURS: Call ahead to be sure. Winter hours: lunch 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday and Wednesday; open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday; 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
PHONE: 386-424-1312
MISC.: Live Irish music Tuesday nights and trivia on Thursday nights. Major credit cards accepted. Outdoor seating is available out front and in the back beer garden.

Essex: The fried seafood you'll meet in heaven

2010-02-03T15:20:27Z

Very plain and unassuming, to the point that you've probably driven right by, Essex Seafood Two is where you may have been missing some of the best fried seafood this side of the Atlantic Ocean.

What were the portions like?

Known to locals as the place with the best fried (insert name of seafood here) platter, "the Essex," as some call it, serves up whopping portions. News-Journal staffers Karen Gallagher and Stephanie Wilson began with a heap of mushrooms as appetizers -- large, whole, breaded, deep-fried, yummy and much better than normal bar-fare mushrooms. Dip these jewels in cheese, ranch or honey mustard sauces; plenty for four people (We took half the heap home.).

]]> What's on the menu?

Just about every kind of seafood or fish you can imagine is offered. Locals rave about the fried clams. Entrees can be deep fried, grilled or baked (some blackened), and the restaurant also offers oysters on the half shell, steamed. Stephanie chose blackened haddock with coleslaw. We made sure there was no leftover haddock -- it was terrific, tasty and near perfection.

I had fried oysters, onion rings and coleslaw. It is the best and freshest coleslaw I've ever had -- anywhere, all time, really. The servings of onion rings and oysters were so large, I had plenty to take home. The owner warned me the onion rings were lousy as leftovers. She was right -- there was no bringing them back because of the breading, but the onions themselves held up.

To add to the rest of the leftovers (actually, for my husband), I ordered a combo plate to go of fried shrimp and scallops with a baked potato and coleslaw. Again, it looked like enough food for two or three people, but we had plans for packing lunches out of the leftovers.

How's the service?

This is a cozy little roadside place. It's popular and stays mostly packed. Each entree is prepared when ordered, so be patient; it's not a fast-food restaurant.

For the business traveler, please take note: There is no cash register, so you won't get a printout or detailed receipt; the owner will be happy to give you a handwritten breakdown of your meal and tear it out of her spiral-ringed notebook.

The parking lot is dirt, the decor not much, but who cares? It's a comfy place to eat good old-fashioned seafood.

What about cost?

With the appetizer, two entrees, a to-go order AND an iced tea and two domestic beers, the tab came to $49.04. We had about six meals out of it.

Essex Seafood Two
WHERE: 1360 W. State Road 40, Pierson (about 4 miles due west of Barberville on S.R. 40)
HOURS: Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
PHONE: 386-749-1557
MISC.: Cash only -- no credit or debit cards

Small plates carry big flavors at The Dish

2010-01-26T20:49:37Z

News-Journal entertainment writer Rick de Yampert and his fiancee, Cheryl Sheppard, recently invited her sister Brandi Shannon to join them for dinner at The Dish Tavern and Grille, a new restaurant in Ormond Beach.

What's the dish on The Dish?

It's a tapas restaurant.

Tap what?

According to spanishfood.about.com, tapas (pronounced TAH-pas) are simply appetizers, canapes or finger food, and are popular in bars and restaurants in Spain.

However, Wikipedia adds that "in North America and the United Kingdom, as well as in select bars in Spain, tapas have evolved into an entire, and sometimes sophisticated, cuisine. In these countries, patrons order many different tapas and combine them to make a full meal. The serving of tapas is designed to encourage conversation because people are not so focused upon eating an entire meal that is set before them."

That's the deal at The Dish. The portions are small -- that is, appetizer size -- and the idea is for each diner to order three or four (or more) items and share them with each other.

The Dish's motto is: "Your plate or mine -- a bottle of wine and great food beg to be shared." Cheryl, Brandi and I noticed that, curiously, neither the menu nor the restaurant's signage mention the "T" word, but the helpful staff were quick to explain that The Dish is indeed a tapas place.

]]> So, how was the food?

In two separate visits, The Dish lived up to its motto -- great food that begs to be shared. And, like that Wiki entry mentioned, The Dish offers sophisticated cuisine that goes far beyond weenie 'n' cracker appetizers.

I'm a vegetarian (who's OK with cheese-y dishes), and The Dish offers a cornucopia of hot veggie dishes. I couldn't pick out a favorite among the white lasagna with grilled eggplant and a rich bechamel sauce ($5.50), the oven roasted asparagus with melted blue cheese and drizzled with olive oil ($4), black bean cake with cilantro lime sour cream ($3.50) and the sweet potato fries sprinkled with brown sugar and served with cinnamon butter ($4.25).

True to The Dish credo, I kept "borrowing" Brandi's three cheese mac and cheese ($4.50) and portobello pizza -- actually a giant portobello cap topped with herb and garlic marinara, mozzarella and basil.

As for the carnivores at the table, Cheryl was quite pleased with her fried shrimp -- this from a person who, at various restaurants, has bounced many an inferior shrimp dish back to the kitchen in shame. (Various shrimp dishes at The Dish -- fried, blackened, scampi, parmesan -- cost $1.25 per shrimp, with a minimum order of four.) Cheryl said her crab cakes (real crab, $9) were good but could have used more spice.

Brandi loved her mojo chicken, a dish served over black beans and brown rice with French baguette slices ($6).

If tapas are appetizers, then how big are the portions?

Some dishes -- in our case the white lasagna and the mojo chicken -- are larger and quite filling. In a previous visit, Cheryl got the chicken pot pie and found it both tasty and enough for a light meal in itself. My four veggie dishes, plus my samples of Brandi's veggie fare, were actually too much for me.

What else is on the menu?

The menu's "Carnivorous Creations" include filet mignon au poivre (tenderloin tips served over mushroom and scallion risotto, $9), various veal scallopini dishes ($8), vodka penne d'Andouille ($5.50), Cuban sliders (smoked pork with swiss cheese pickles and mustard, $5), lollipop lambchops (in a cherry glaze, $11) and many more.
The menu also includes escargot scampi ($5), frogs' legs ($6.50), sesame seared ahi tuna ($7), grilled Scottish salmon and brie ($9), and many other seafood and chicken dishes.

What about desserts?

Cheryl, an experienced baker and aspiring pastry chef who recently graduated from the baking/pastry program at Daytona State College, was disappointed with the chocolate pot de creme. She said it tilted too much to the bittersweet chocolate side and was covered with too much whipped cream. But she liked the tuxedo bombe, a chocolate mousse-like dessert with a crisp chocolate shell.

What was your tab?

$72.96 before tip. But, frankly, we each over-ordered, subconsciously thinking these "appetizers" might not be enough.

What else is notable about The Dish?

The music over the PA system -- any place that plays "Going to California," that gentle Led Zeppelin ballad, and acoustic Bruce Springteen gets a thumbs-up from this pop music critic.

The Dish Tavern and Grille

WHERE: 1185 W. Granada Blvd., Suite 1, in the Tuscany Shoppes plaza, Ormond Beach
HOURS: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Sunday
PHONE: 386-672-3567, thedishtavernandgrill.com
MISC.: Restaurant includes full-service bar and outdoor dining area. Currently features live music Wednesday nights.

Pirana Grille offers fish, steaks, sports bar fare

2010-01-20T15:08:14Z

Few people likely remember that years ago Pirana Grille, 241 N. U.S. 1, Ormond Beach, was Williams Fruit & Gift Shop, a bright and shiny fresh orange and souvenir stand. Over the years Staff Writer Audrey Parente has chronicled the evolution of the spot, through several different restaurants. But she hadn't been there for a while and decided to check out how the place is faring these days.

She asked former News-Journal editor Laurence Bennett to meet her for a menu sampling, and on a recent cold evening found a warm reception from a cheerful staff, at an updated sports bar with half-a-dozen big screen televisions and a huge menu.

]]> How was the appearance?

White cloth table covers with yellow cloth accents, clean white linoleum flooring, bright windows and good lighting made the place a pleasing restaurant with a fully stocked polished wooden bar.

What did you order?

The menu offered lots of standard sports bar fare, including 21 Angus sirloin burger choices. But it also had a dinner selection of fish, steak dinners, dinner salads and personal pizzas.
We shared a coconut shrimp appetizer and Greek salad. Four fat and hot deep-fried coconut shrimp and a generous salad -- made with romaine lettuce by my request -- proved filling and would have been enough. But we had already each ordered an entree as well.

What entrees did you order?

It was a fish kind of night for us. I ordered grouper -- the real deal -- grilled with fresh vegetables, which arrived as a bountiful plate. I nibbled but asked for a to-go box. Bennett chose Fish of the Day -- sole -- grilled with veggies. He nibbled, too, and got his own box.

Anything else?

Well, yes. I just drank water, but Bennett hadn't finished his Yuengling beer, so we decided to hang out awhile longer and tried apple and Key lime pies for dessert -- because the red velvet cake on the menu wasn't available. Pies: not so special. Or maybe we really were too stuffed to appreciate the warm apples and heavy Key lime filling.

How much did it cost?

Yuengling beer, $2; coconut shrimp appetizer, $5.95; Greek salad $8.95; grilled grouper with veggies, $12.95; grilled sole with veggies, $8.95; apple and Key lime pies, $2.75 each. Total with tax and tip: $55.90

Pirana Grille

WHERE: 241 N. U.S. 1, Ormond Beach
HOURS: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. (food 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.) daily
PHONE: 386-673-3336; piranagrille.com
MISC.: Parking in front and back. Major credit cards accepted.

DeLand cafe is hot spot to stop for soup

2010-01-12T18:13:29Z

On a cool Saturday, staff writer Derek Catron took his family for some tasty soup at Cook's Cafe in downtown DeLand.

Did you really drive from Daytona Beach to DeLand just for lunch?

Yes, and it was worth it for the one-of-a-kind Chicken Velvet soup.

One of a kind?

It even has a registered trademark. But more on that later.

Cook's Cafe is tucked away inside the MainStreet Center, an office/retail building at the corner of Woodland Boulevard and New York Avenue. The menu includes everything you'd expect from a lunch spot: burgers, deli sandwiches, salads, even some vegetarian options. But the best reasons to visit -- over and over again -- are the soups and baked treats. The soups are made from scratch daily, and each day there's a selection of cakes, pies and cookies sure to break the resolve of the most committed dieters.

]]> What did you have?

I had the soup special ($4.29), which included a 12-oz. bowl of the Chicken Velvet, garlic bread loaf and medium drink. My 10-year-old photographer had the turkey breast sandwich basket with fries ($5.19), while my dining companion was left to sample the Red Velvet soup ($2.99 for a cup) and the grilled chicken Caesar pita ($4.49).

The sandwich won the kid-stamp of approval (there is a separate children's menu), while the fries -- thick and crisp -- wound up being shared by everyone. The lettuce on the pita was fresh, and the dressing added some zest to the chicken without overpowering it.

You promised to tell us about the soup ...

I'm still savoring the memory. The Chicken Velvet is a cream-based soup with chicken, fresh mushrooms, tarragon and a host of secret ingredients owner and chef Michael Cook guards so carefully he had the soup trademarked. Same with the "Red Velvet," which has a tangier taste and has become just as popular as its sister. I'm sticking with the original, which has an elusive sweetness that's hard to describe -- you'll have to try it yourself -- and it's so thick it's almost a solid.

The soup was originally served in a nearby restaurant that's since closed. Cook (whose parents founded the Holiday House restaurants) was so impressed, he spent years experimenting until he felt like he'd not only duplicated the recipe -- he'd improved upon it.
That was more than 13 years ago -- the same year the other restaurant, Fresco's, closed -- and the soup has been his ever since.

What about the desserts?

The soup is surprisingly filling, and it doesn't leave much room for dessert. I've always imagined that the people ordering them must work close enough to make more than one trip to the restaurant. We each ordered a cookie ($1.25) to go. I had the white chocolate chip with Craisins because it seemed so unusual, and it didn't disappoint: a soft, chewy center with just enough crispness around the edges. I can say, confidentially, that the chocolate chip was just as good (my photographer forgot about the cookies after we got home), but I'd prefer that we keep that between us.

Cook's Cafe

WHERE: 101 N. Woodland Blvd., DeLand, inside MainStreet Center.
HOURS: 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday
PHONE: 386-738-5030.
MISC.: Major credit cards accepted; handicapped accessible.

Diners find eclectic fare, excellent service at Flip Flops

2010-01-06T15:26:42Z

On the day that Florida's Urban Meyer altered his plan to resign as football coach, News-Journal sports writer Brent Woronoff, his wife, Mary Jo, and friends Linda and Phil dined at Flip Flops Grill and Chill in New Smyrna Beach.

Merely coincidence. Football was not even on our minds. There was not a television in sight on this NFL Sunday evening as we were seated in the spacious restaurant, formerly a Shell's Fresh Seafood. Another competition did enter our thoughts, however.

Flip Flops, after all, is the bistro in which chef Danny Veltri whipped up dishes when he was chosen to compete on Fox's reality show, "Hell's Kitchen." Just before Veltri was declared the champion last spring, the cozy little eatery off Flagler Avenue moved to these new digs.
While the restaurant's name doesn't seem to fit the more elaborate setting, you get the sense that the gracious staff here would welcome diners to the stylish establishment whether they were wearing beach attire or business suits.

]]> So what is the menu like?

Eclectic. Burgers, pita pizzas, salads, gourmet entrees and sandwiches. There are lots of fresh seafood choices, and a Caribbean theme with dishes such as Jerk Chicken Skewers, Wahoo with Mango Salsa and Mahi Mahi Gone Bananas (lightly blackened mahi-mahi with grilled banana halves, tomato relish and a Key lime-coconut sauce).

You could also choose all-American fare such as a New York strip steak with garlic-herb butter, Philly cheese steak or jumbo lump crab cakes. Or you could emulate another TV reality show -- "Man vs. Food" -- and try the Big Flippin' Burger: four half-pound Black Angus burgers topped with everything imaginable including a condition -- "no sharing, no substitutions."

What did your party order?

We stuck with entrees. Linda chose the Chicken Bruschetta (chargrilled chicken breast, topped with fresh mozzarella, diced tomatoes, garlic, fresh basil and extra-virgin olive oil, drizzled with a balsamic reduction ($17). Phil picked a half-order of baby back ribs with a citrus barbecue sauce ($14). Mary Jo selected chargrilled salmon with a Champagne citrus sauce ($17). And I ordered mahi-mahi with fresh peach salsa ($17).

Did you enjoy your dinners?

We all cleaned our plates. Phil's ribs were tender and succulent. The salmon, with the charcoal-grilled flavor, was scrumptious. I enjoyed my fish, but I didn't think the salsa added much to the dish. Linda said her chicken could have been served a bit warmer. Mary Jo and Linda substituted the cranberry spring salad for the house salad and were delighted by their selection. Mary Jo said sharpness of the blue cheese and sweetness of the dried cranberries made for a delicious contrast. But even the house salad with a variety of field greens was first-rate.

The best side was easily the German-style potato pancakes, which were among the best potato pancakes I've ever tasted, and in this category I'm a seasoned veteran.

How was the service?

Perfect. Friendly, helpful, attentive and right on time. Even though the menu states, "Please be patient, our food is made fresh to order and may exceed the normal wait time," we had no waiting. Moments after we finished our salads the entrees arrived. Not much time between dishes to chat, but we made up for it lingering over our dinners.

How were the prices?

Very reasonable for fine dining. Sandwiches ranged from $8 to $12. The most expensive entree was the 16-ounce New York strip at $29. Our bill, which included a holiday apple cider and four coffees, came to $91.44 with tax, not including tip.

Flip Flops Grill and Chill

WHERE: 725 E. Third Ave. (building in front of the Publix plaza on beach side), New Smyrna Beach
PHONE: 386-424-0161
MISC.: Complete wine list, credit cards accepted, live music on most nights

Lime Restaurant & Rum Bar has tasty cuisine with Caribbean twist

2009-12-29T21:06:25Z

When a spacious restaurant with a shining long bar is nearly empty, News-Journal staffer Audrey Parente gets a little nervous that the place might not be too good.

But even though only one other couple was eating at Lime Restaurant & Rum Bar in Daytona Beach when she strolled in with her friend Laurence Bennett before taking in a show at the Peabody Auditorium, the opposite was true. The presentation would put a smile on even the haughtiest gastronomic connoisseur and the tastes were equally smile worthy.

How was the atmosphere?

Green, serene, spacious and clean, with white tablecloths, candles and a festive banana-leaf motif. The waiter was sweet and upbeat.

]]> What did you order?

Bennett had a coconut mojito -- it is a rum bar after all -- and we sampled a calamari appetizer. Nothing fried, but grilled, then delicately sauteed with garlic and white wine. The plate was decorated with two crisp plantains. An unexpectedly light and aromatic dish to start off our meal.

What else did you order?

The waiter suggested we share a salad next. We picked a Creole salad and were thankful for his suggestion when we saw our meal platters. Laurence had suckling pig, all hand-pulled and marinated in sour orange, served with black beans and rice and yucca, all drizzled with a tasty mojo. Audrey had pan-seared snapper with mango relish, served on a bed of yams and a queso blanco (a white cheese) puree, all resting on a banana leaf.

Anything else?

We really went easy on the dinner and had some boxed because the dessert menu would have been a shame to pass up. We shared a Chocolate Marquise and a Tres Leches.
The chocolate martini-glass dessert was an unbelievable mousse, layered with rum-soaked cake, a crisp vanilla cookie and a mint sprig. That would have been enough for the two of us, had we known how thick it was. But that didn't stop us from downing the Tres Leches, a traditional three-milk sponge cake, which was incredibly rich and accented with fresh strawberries. It was so good, I thought about licking the plate. (No, I didn't do it.)

How much did it cost?

Mojito $6.50; calamari appetizer $7.50; Creole Salad $5; Snapper $18.50; Suckling Pig $13.50; Chocolate Marquise $6; Tres Leches $5. Total with tax and tip: $79.03.

Lime Restaurant & Rum Bar

WHERE: 512 Seabreeze Blvd., Daytona Beach
HOURS: Opens at 5 p.m. Monday-Saturday, closing at 11 p.m. on Monday and Tuesday, midnight on Wednesday and 1 a.m. Thursday-Saturday. Closed Sunday.
MISC.: Major credit cards accepted. Parking on Seabreeze Boulevard.

Diners find lunch tasty, relaxing at Ivy Lane Bistro

2009-12-23T20:03:33Z

Copy editor Sherry Mims and her husband, Amir Fleminger, went to lunch recently at Ivy Lane Bistro on South Beach Street in Daytona Beach. It features a variety of sandwiches, soups and wraps as well as specials listed on the chalkboard out front.

The Web site, with its menu online, advertises the bistro as "Fresh, creative nouveau cuisine at breakfast, lunch, and dinner."

How was the atmosphere?

We chose to sit outside to enjoy the cool weather and people-watch. Ivy Lane Bistro is perfect for that, and it's very relaxed and unhurried. Even when it approached closing time, we never felt pressured to leave.

]]> What did you order?

For beverages, Amir had fresh-squeezed orange juice while I had raspberry iced tea, which I'm still craving.

Amir and I ordered cups of cream of broccoli and Italian vegetable ($3.50) soups, respectively, to start us off. The cup size was perfect, considering the portions of the main dishes were generous. We tried each other's but liked our own best. Most items cost between $5 and $9.

I ordered one of the daily specials, chicken quesadillas with sour cream and guacamole ($7.95). It had the right balance of chicken and cheese, and I liked the just-right salsa -- not too hot and not too mild. Lettuce was on the side.

After learning Ivy Lane only had quiches with ham remaining, Amir decided to order Spanakopita, which is a spinach pie with feta and cream cheese in a phyllo pastry ($5.50). His came with a side, so he chose pasta salad out of a variety of selections, including seasoned chips, potato salad, straw fries or sweet potato fries (which I thought sounded delicious).

"Be sure to mention that this delicious dish completely filled your bottomless-stomach husband," Amir said.

Was there room for dessert?

We felt it was our duty to try at least one, so we shared the large brownie. The brownie was served warm with whipped cream, chocolate syrup and powered sugar on top.

How much did lunch cost?

Everything with tax came out to $28.97, excluding tip. We found the price very reasonable for the quality and amount of food we received, especially since my boxed-up remaining quesadilla became my supper for that night at work.

Ivy Lane Bistro
246 S. Beach St., Daytona Beach
HOURS: 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays, 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekends and 5 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
CONTACT: 386-258-7112; ivylanebistro.com.
MISC.: The dinner menu lists live music from 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Parking is along Beach Street.

Editor's note: Kevin Manley, owner of Ivy Lane Bistro, is the husband of Nada Manley, fashion correspondent for The News-Journal.