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Blue at Topaz Lunch Bunch 2/17/10

In her never-ending and too often futile quest to find good food in Flagler County, Blue at Topaz was like a breath of fresh air for News-Journal staff writer Kari Cobham.

And we're OK with that cliche since it's on oceanfront State Road A1A -- hence the fresh air -- and happy taste buds can say whatever they want.

Also, the decor at Blue is, you guessed it, blue: blue walls, fixtures and stained glass. But it's tolerably bohemian since the 7-year-old restaurant is part of the old Fuquay House circa 1926.

Late architect Dana Fuquay's two-story mansion and the Coast Guard's former World War II home is now the renovated Topaz Hotel and, admittedly, it doesn't look like much from the outside.

But wait 'til you get a load of the daily lunch specials and menu.

So what's the menu like?

In general, it's pretty seafood heavy, but there's also salad, steak, chicken, duck, lamb, pork chops, pasta and grilled sandwiches.

Think fish tacos, grilled portobello sandwiches, wasabi horseradish honey-crusted salmon and chicken gorgonzola. Meal prices average between $15 and $25 depending on time of day; specials cost less.

What did you have?

I went with the lunch special: parmesan-encrusted grouper in tomato/basil sauce, basmati rice and haricot vert (green beans) ($12) with cranberry juice ($2). (Beer and wine are also available, but let's not imbibe in the middle of a work day.)

blue-at-topaz217.JPGThat and a generous tip came up to a grand total of just under $20.

How was it?

It took considerable self-restraint to keep from eating the plate. In other words, it was amazing.

The fish was soft, flaky and mildly spicy, the basmati rice was fragrant and slightly sticky and the green beans were a good touch. I call five stars.

What about the ambience?

The oceanview dining room, with original hand-carved ceiling moldings, seats 48 people. The wrap-around porch is perfect for pretty beach days and intimate dinners.

The hotel boasts antiques and interesting period and family memorabilia. Seating was prompt and service very accommodating.

Can you take your mom?

Totally. I took mine. And she loved it.

Blue at Topaz
WHERE: 1224 S. Oceanshore Blvd., Flagler Beach; www.flagleronline.com/blue
PHONE: 386-439-4322
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
MISC.: Cash and credit cards accepted. Parking on hotel grounds. Handicapped accessible.